Balance the ducts in your home for both summer and winter use.
In summer, when using air conditioning, consider closing off the dampers of your basement ducts. This will send more cooled air upstairs. You can reopen them in the fall to allow heated air to be sent into the basement.

When a furnace fan motor has to be replaced, ask about a high efficiency fan motor, because they use much less electricity.

Cleaning the outside unit
The outside unit may become clogged with leaves, grass clippings and other debris. If the outside unit is located under or next to a dryer exhaust vent, the lint exhausted may collect in and around the coils and cause the air conditioner to run less efficiently and thus require cleaning more often.

To clean the outside unit, first ensure that the power is turned off at the service panel. Then following the manufacturer's instructions, gently clean out the debris that has collected.

Use your electric meter as a diagnostic tool. Monitoring your electricity consumption will help you notice any unusual rises in consumption that may be due to an air conditioner or heat pump operating low on refrigerant.

When shopping for a central or window air conditioning unit, the unit must be properly sized to the cooling requirements. A unit that's cooling capacity is too large will cool the space quickly, but may not sufficiently dehumidify the air. This may result in the space being clammy.

How can I tell a heat pump from an air conditioner?
Generally if the outside unit is on the ground it is most likely an air conditioner. If it is on a stand it is most probably a heat pump.

The thermostat for a heat pump usually has an indicator or switch denoting the type of back up heating system, for example, emergency heat or auxiliary heat. An air conditioner thermostat used with a furnace would only need to show heat and cool.

While the unit is in use, check air filters once a month and clean or replace them when necessary.

Heat pumps and air conditioning:
Most heat pumps and some air conditioners have a crankcase oil heater which may use 25 to 80 watts. It is also used to help keep the refrigerant and oil separated. If the unit is not to be used for the season, you may consider turning off the breaker supplying power to the unit.

However, if restarting a unit that was off in cold weather, some manufacturers require that the heater be operating for about 12 to 24 hours before first turning the heat pump on with the thermostat.

Heat pumps or air conditioners with scroll compressors are more efficient.

Programmable thermostats specially designed to work with a heat pump are now available that allow temperature set back.

When using central air conditioning alone, it is not always necessary to have the furnace fan running continuously. However, when an electronic air filter is operating, forced air heating and cooling systems usually require the furnace fan to run continuously.

Heat build up during summer:
The sun beating down on a roof during a hot summer day can heat the attic space to an overwhelming 54°C (130°F). The heat radiates down into the living areas, causing extreme discomfort. Although cooler outdoor temperatures bring some moderation after sundown, the hot air trapped inside the attic remains at about 38°C (102°F), causing discomfort in bedrooms and other living areas. A heat wave will increase the discomfort with each passing day.

Proper attic insulation and ventilation will not only help keep your home warm in the winter but will also help your home cool in the summer. Make sure your insulation matches today's standards. R40 is recommended for electrically heated homes.


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