Movement is soul of watch. A watch with cheap movement is just a cold body.
In earlier years, pocket watches equipped dust cover with case to protect movement. In
wristwatch era, dust cover is no longer necessary. The case back may adopts transparent sapphire cystal glass or hatch back to reveal the beauty of movement. Patek Philippe 3990 sets a fine example of the former style while Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Watch 5059 and Petek Philippe 5015 that wish power reserve and moon phase are thing of beauty of the latter style.
You should have something to show otherwise you may lose to shame if the movement is cheap or crude. As known to senior collectors, even perfect-polished movement may subject to scratches or stab wounds when sent for repair or oil washing. Every open hurts. Then you may hate the transparent case back because it makes all scars exposed. Therefore, the factory should be very confident to launch watch models that are transparent at front and back.
But not all two-side-transparent watches are
skeleton watches which shall try to eliminate any parts possbible except gear, barrel, escape wheel and balance wheel and only keep the supporting skeleton. The remain parts always receive delicate polishing, nice decoration or hand-made curved pattern. As all redundant parts that block views is elimilated, the winding gear, the third wheel, escape wheel and the lever offers clear visual grand banquet. Only such skeleton watches deserve sapphire crystal glass at both sides.
Skeleton watches are not modern product. It is recorded that it was watch-making master AndreCharles Caron who exclusively served Louis XV that created skeleton techniques. Sometimes, few ancient skeleton watches which are very rare may appear at auction houses. You may know little about Caron. But his son and his son-in-law were France household names in eighteenth century. Firstly, his son, de Beaumarchais, was a French world-famous romantic comedist in 18th century. His most famous works included The Marriage of Figaro and The Barber of Seville, both were adapted to operas. De Beaumarchais, whose original name was Pierre Augustin Caron, was also an outstanding watch-making master. Jean-Antoine Lepine, Beaumarchais’ brother-in-law, was the famous French watch-making master in 18th century. He made much bigger achievement than his father-in-law and brother-in-law.
Nowadays, there are at least 5 factories that produce skeleton watches. And I have greatest interest in
Petekl Philippe and
Vacheron Constantin
.
When I first became interested in wristwatches, I had no concept about watch factory ranking and watch maintaining value. It was a good thing because I would not be blind by prices and brands. The skeleton watch with diamond bezel made by Patek Philippe in 1990s fascinated me most. It is crafted from 18k gold and has a sixteen corner appearance. Its ladies model (25mm at diameter) uses manual wound movement with 17 jewels, single metal balance. The men size comes with a diameter of 34mm and uses automatic movement which is much bigger and has 26 jewels and single metal balance. Either men size or ladies model, the watch crown is set with round0top sapphire crystal and the barrel features the engraved Vacheron Constantin Malta cross logo. The remain skeleton is exquisitely curved. You may take a magnifier to examine. It appeals more if you spend more time on it.
This Vachevon Constantin two-hand skeleton watch, though has simple functions, belongs to complication series. After all, it is a skeleton watches completed with gilded techniques. This model is also available in gold and white gold. As for skeleton watches, I like rose gold most and gold second. I do like white gold model because white gold with curved pattern really dazzles me. Though this model is not available in rose gold, it has the feeling of red gold model as matched with dark red leather.
To men, loved timepiece is his another love women. I rarely wear this Vacheron Canstantin. When I do wear it, it will cover it with protective layer and I will alternate the original buckle and crocodile skin strap. Most to time, I just admire her transparent body and curved beauty through magnifier. I just sit there and keep watching for one or two dial. Her 64 round diamond looks strikingly attractive under the light.
